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Photography from the Scripps College Collection
Barbara Mullen, Flat Hat, Bare Back, Harper's Bazaar, New York, 1958
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Barbara Mullen, Flat Hat, Bare Back, Harper's Bazaar, New York, 1958
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Accession Number
2011.3.1
Title
Barbara Mullen, Flat Hat, Bare Back, Harper's Bazaar, New York, 1958
Artist
Bassman, Lillian
Artist Nationality
American
Subject
Black-and-white photography
Gelatin silver print
Women photographers
Fashion
Coverage - Spatial
New York
Coverage - Temporal
Contemporary
1946 to present
Description
Barbara
Mullen’s
celebrated
twenty-inch
waist
is
at the
center
of
Flat
Hat
Bare
Back
,
which
Bassman
shot
for
Harper’s
Bazaar
in
1958
. The
formal
,
compositional
elements
of
black-and-white
fashion
photography
,
which
have
since
become
Bassman’s
signature
, were
nourished
in the
collaborative
partnership
she and
Mullen
began
developing
in the
late
1940s
. This was
perhaps
due
in
part
to
Mullen’s
ability
to
do
anything
with her
arms
and
legs
and
pose
sinuously
(1)
, but also to the
rapport
Bassman
felt
for her
models
. In her
constant
attention
to
light
and
dark
,
Bassman
brings
the
black
dress
to
frame
the
neck
and
bare
back
,
abstracting
them to
become
a
glowing
,
amorphous
form
that
catches
us
off
guard
when
paired
with
Mullen’s
obscured
,
yet
recognizable
profile
. The
diagonal
symmetry
and
motion
of
Mullen’s
arms
sheathed
in
black
gloves
stand
in
sharp
contrast
to the
horizontal
of the
flat
hat
,
reminiscent
of
classical
Egyptian
fashion
.
Mullen’s
body
curves
between
two
parallel
vertical
lines
,
which
serve
as the
photograph’s
secondary
frame
.
Bassman’s
attention
to
motion
is
further
accentuated
by the
departure
of the
anonymous
figure
from the
right
of the
image
. A
tableau
appears
behind
Mullen
in
low
resolution
, a
signature
of
Bassman’s
darkroom
techniques
of
bleaching
and
tissuing
;
together
, the
graininess
and
blurred
edges
contribute
to the
romantic
effect
for
which
Bassman
is
now
identified
. The
inversion
of
painting
as
backdrop
and
human
form
as
tableau
suggest
that
Bassman
knows
and
mischievously
challenges
the
hierarchical
distinction
between
fashion
and
art
.
(1)
Neigher
,
Julie
.
Lillian
Bassman
: the
return
of an
icon
.
L.A
.
Times
7
February
2010
:
P1
,
P6
.
Print
.
Item
described
by
Catherine
Sweatt
,
Academic
Year
Wilson
Intern
,
2010-2011
.
Notes
Signed and numbered in pencil on verso.
Date
1958
Source
Silver gelatin print on paper; black and white photography; 14 in. x 11 in. (35.56 cm x 27.94 cm)
Collection
Photography from the Scripps College Collection
Publisher
Ruth Chandler Williamson Gallery
Rights
The contents of this item, including all images and text, are for personal, educational, and non-commercial use only. The contents of this item may not be reproduced in any form without the express permission of Scripps College and the Peter Fetterman Gallery. Any form of image reproduction, transmission, display, or storage in any retrieval system is prohibited without the written consent of Scripps College and ©Lillian Bassman Courtesy Peter Fetterman Gallery. Scripps College retains all rights, including copyright, in data, images, documentation, text and other information contained in these files. For permissions, please contact: Scripps College, Ruth Chandler Williamson Gallery Attn: Rights and Reproductions, 1030 Columbia Avenue, Claremont, CA 91711 and the Peter Fetterman Gallery, 2525 Michigan Ave #A1, Santa Monica, CA 90404
Credit Line
Scripps College. Purchase made possible by the Jean and Arthur Ames Fund
Type
Image
Format
image/jp2
Object File Name
2011.3.1.jpg
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